You will be very familiar with Ashish Gupta’s fashion designs from Instagram stories by now. His sequinned reimaginings of Taylor Swift’s “Not A Lot Going On At The Moment” Eras Tour t-shirts have become a defining look of the shows. But unlike his signature and much beloved designs, which are full of vibrant shades and couture sparkle, his new photography project takes on a significantly more muted aesthetic.
“These aren’t fashion images,” he tells me, as we discuss the new photo book, Looking For Now, released as a collaboration with House of Voltaire. “They’re more inspired by vintage porn magazines, and photography of the male form, than fashion.”
Where the sequins of his fashion designs are hard and dazzling, the soft white cotton underwear that litters the pages of Looking For Now reveals a more intimate gaze in the artist.
“These photos are portraits of individuals as they are, often the clothes they arrive in. I’m documenting the experience we have as photographer and model, and the commonality we have. It’s not about me imposing glamour onto them, but more about what they choose to share with me and how they present themselves in the moment.”
Like a cross between a Gay porn mag and an American Apparel underwear catalogue, the images are saturated with a heady male sexuality that feels affronting. “This book has been put together as a series of pairings and vignettes that reflect Queer experience,” Ashish tells me. “I wanted to articulate the complex relationships around hook up culture, self image and self worth. These are intimate portraits where I have tried to capture the vulnerability that accompanies lust and sexual objectification.”
Away from bright lights and glamour filters, the unmasking, sunlight and bare skin of Looking For Now allows for a sexuality that feels rare – one that’s both soft and in your face. “Much of Queer culture, or Gay culture, has always been situated around desire; desire for sex, connection, love. As a marginalised community we deal with the conflicting desires to both fit in and live outside of mainstream society. Sex, love, desire are universal themes, within the LGBTQ+ communities there are extra layers of meaning to contend with.”
Looking For Now launches July 27th At Studio Voltaire 4-6pm with a book signing by Ashish. He’s also giving away original Polaroids to the first few buyers!
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