Malta is one of the world’s smallest countries, but its reputation on LGBTQ+ inclusivity and equality is bigger than most. For the last nine years, it has topped ILGA Europe’s ranking of the continent’s best places to be LGBTQ+ because of its bold societal and political progressiveness. Among its policies are a ban on so-called ‘conversion therapy’, the option for Non-Binary people to register their preferred gender on their birth certificate, and full adoption rights for LGBTQ+ people. But, does it have a lot to offer Queer tourists? In short, yes – but not in the way you’d perhaps expect.
Unlike countries such as the UK, Spain or Germany, Malta doesn’t have one particular ‘Gay’ area, nor does it boast an array of LGBTQ+ venues. It does, however, have a number of things the community can do and enjoy – including a bustling Pride, which takes place every September, and is the best time of year to visit.
With people now planning their 2025 getaways, there’s no denying that those who are LGBTQ+ have to take into account how welcoming a place will be for them, especially as we see hateful rhetoric becoming increasingly normalised globally. So, during a brief, three(ish)-day visit for Pride last year, I wanted to see just what the city had to offer.
DAY ONE: WINE TASTING, DINNER ON THE WATER & DARING COCKTAILS
After arriving in the late-morning, the first thing to do was get lunch. Before checking into the InterContinental Hotel we were staying at in Valletta, we headed to the Ta’ Betta Wine Estates for a beautiful spread of food. Located in the stunning green surroundings of Girgenti in Siġġiewi, the estate – which makes up four hectares of land and is 200 metres above sea-level – feels as though it’s on an incredibly remote part of the island. What we quickly realised, though, was that this was the case anytime we left Valletta, as the island is so small that getting around doesn’t take long or ever feel overly busy. This venue is the perfect place to go post-flight as you wait to check in to your hotel, not least because you can sit outside in the gorgeous heat while enjoying great food and tasting impeccable wines.
Following a few hours at the Ta’ Betta Wine Estates, we headed to our hotel. Regardless of when you visit Malta, the InterContinental has everything you could ask for and more. From multiple pools, to bars, to 24-hour room service, it would be understandable if you spent more time in the hotel than you’d intended because it really does feel like its own mini metropolis within St George’s Bay. More on its luxurious amenities later, though, as after a flight and lunch, it was the room itself that mattered most. Boasting stunning views of the ocean that you can look out at from your own private balcony, it also comes complete with a huge flatscreen television, large bed and modern bathroom to enjoy.
Dinner was a short walk away at Sole by Tarragon, which is inspired by European cuisine and specialises in seafood dishes. As a vegetarian, the options were somewhat limited, but the venue itself is beautiful and sits right on the water overlooking the bay. Its peaceful but vibrant atmosphere makes it an ideal place to eat on your first day, especially if you’ve travelled a long way.
But why end the night there? A short walk away is Kuch Kuch, a cocktail bar like no other. Personally, I judge every bar on its espresso martini, but Kuch Kuch does things differently. Each cocktail is given a daring twist, and their take on an espresso martini is the ‘It Came Through Venice’ made up of vodka, sake, cardamom, radish, beetroot, espresso and Tia Maria. Now, listen, this was not the nicest drink I’ve ever tasted – but that doesn’t mean Kuch Kuch isn’t undeniably one of the best places to get a drink in Malta. Its varied menu is exciting, and not knowing exactly what will come is part of the fun – not least because they don’t exactly serve things in typical glasses (‘It Came Through Venice’, for example, came in a giant reusable coffee cup). Regardless of what drink you get, though, you simply cannot leave Kuch Kuch without trying the ‘French Egg’ shots, which do indeed come in an egg tray. If you do decide to stay at the InterContinental and don’t go out after Kuch Kuch, then the good news is that it’s a mere two minutes away by foot.
DAY TWO: TUK TUKS, GOZO & PICKLEBACKS
No visit to Malta would be complete without a trip to its sister island, Gozo. If you’re visiting for a short time like I was, I’d highly recommend doing this when you’re able to be up early and dedicate a full day to it to make the most of it. Cheap ferry trips make getting to Gozo incredibly easy, with the option of a 25-minute journey from the Cirkewwa terminal or a 45-minute one from Valletta.
We decided to take a Tuk Tuk tour of the island, which ended up being a highlight of the trip. Carrying up to six people, the drivers are able to show you hidden treasures not typically seen by tourists, with the option to stop wherever you’d like. You can feel the breeze on your skin as you ride through the various breathtaking landscapes Gozo has to offer, including driving right by the crystal clear water. Think of the Tuk Tuks as a guided tour from a local, with the added excitement of being whizzed around the island.
We ate lunch at Il-Kartell, a beautiful restaurant that sits right on the Mediterranean Ocean with stunning views of the water. The varied menu at Il-Kartell has an array of options that offers something for everyone, including a stunningly smooth espresso martini. By the early afternoon, we opted to head back to Malta to ensure we had enough time to freshen up before the evening – but make no mistake, there’s plenty to do in Gozo if you’d like to spend the full day there.
Q Travel Malta that night gave us a walking tour of Valletta, designed especially for LGBTQ+ tourists. Although not everything on the tour is explicitly queer, it shows you fascinating details about Malta’s heritage through an LGBTQ+ lens. It’s one of the most scenic and accessible ways to see the city, and the tour guides will answer any questions you have, or give you the recommendations you need for the rest of your trip.
Just a few steps away from the iconic Grandmasters Palace Square is 59 Republic, one of Valletta’s most popular dining spots. With a focus on innovative flavours and fresh seasonal produce, the restaurant boasts a varied drinks menu that makes it the perfect place to eat before exploring Valletta’s nightlife – which is exactly what we did.
Think of London in the summer meets an intimate dive bar and you’ll end up with our first stop, Café Society. Its description as the “wrong place for the right people” is 100% accurate, not least because of the truly evil pickleback shots it’s known for. Most people opt to stand on the steps in the blissful heat of the night, while inside you’ll find what it says on the tin – a bar that somewhat resembles the vibe of a café.
Most nights in Malta tend to end at the Michelangelo Club, the island’s biggest LGBTQ+ venue. It has everything you’d expect from a nightclub, so there isn’t a whole lot to say – but it’s worth checking out if you enjoy partying, and not worth it if you’re (understandably) someone who prefers to end the night after a few drinks in a bar.
DAY THREE: GAME OF THRONES & PRIDE
Our last full day in Malta began with an exploration of Mdina, one of the island’s most historically rich areas. It features a mix of medieval and baroque architecture, complete with fortified walls that offer some of the best views of Malta. Looking around Mdina is an absolute must for Game of Thrones fans, as it was the filming location for the fictional capital city of King’s Landing. The town’s baroque gate can also be seen during the first season, with Mesquita Square being the real life location of Littlefinger’s brothel.
One of the most undeniably gorgeous aspects of Malta is the water that surrounds it. Short boat rides around the Grand Harbour are available at reasonable rates, and give you a chance to see Valletta’s beauty from a different perspective. At around only 20 minutes or so, it’s the perfect thing to do in between activities – so we opted for it before marching in the Pride parade.
Kicking off at the water fountain in Triton Square, the parade begins in the early evening when the weather is still warm but cool enough to march in comfortably. The parade features everything you’d expect such as floats, dancers and street performers, all complete with a welcoming atmosphere that is indicative of the country’s incredible track record on LGBTQ+ rights. If you choose to march the entire length of the parade, then you can expect it to last around an hour before it reaches its end in St George’s Square where the concert takes place throughout the night.
This felt like the best time to eat as the evening often runs away with you once performances begin, and Gracy’s, one of Valletta’s most elegant restaurants, is located right in the heart of the festivities. Whether you sit on the gorgeous rooftop (which overlooks the concert in St George’s Square) or inside the luxurious dining space, your experience will be nothing if not grand. The food is light but filling, and is the perfect thing to keep you going throughout the night. It comes with the added benefit of being able to literally step out onto St George’s Square whenever you want to, where you’ll find a concert with performances from an array of Malta’s finest talent. The concert is free to attend, but VIP options are available should you want them. There are also various after parties that take place throughout the island, the best of which is hosted by Nerve.
DAY FOUR: THE BLUE GROTTO
With a flight to catch in the early afternoon, there was only time for one quick activity after a gorgeous breakfast spread at the InterContinental. The Blue Grotto is one of Malta’s most famous cave complexes, made up of nine caves that sit on the bright blue water. For only €10, you can take a boat ride in and around them which lasts roughly 30-45 minutes. I have to say, this was one of the most memorable parts of our trip and really felt like a once in a lifetime experience – particularly as someone visiting from London where this simply does not exist. That said, would I in hindsight do it the morning after Pride? Absolutely not – especially if you’re someone who gets seasick. It also wasn’t helped by the fact we then had to fly home, but it was definitely worth doing, though a different day would have been better.
WHERE SHOULD I STAY?
Located at the heart of St George’s Bay, the InterContinental offers you the perfect balance of luxury and practicality. The hotel is within walking distance of pretty much everything you’ll want to do in Malta, including all that Pride has to offer. Its expansive array of facilities include numerous pools (both inside and out), bars, restaurants, a spa, hair salon, gym and 24-hour room service. Prices start at a very reasonable £130 a night including breakfast, but try to book in advance if possible as this is a very popular spot (for good reason).
HOW CAN I GET THERE?
If you’re flying from the UK, then you’re in luck because Malta is a mere three or so hours away. Flights with British Airways, which goes between Gatwick and Malta daily all year long, start at just £112 and give you a choice of Economy and Business Class. I flew in the latter, and it gives you the benefit of increased checked luggage, fast track security, complimentary food and drink on board, as well as lounge access – which is probably the perk you’ll notice most of all as it totally eradicates the stress of being at an airport before a flight. Find out more about flying with British Airways here.
